High Sierra Trail Part 2/8 – from Buck Creek to Hamilton Lake (4 Miles)

I’d like to explain a little bit how overnight backcountry hiking – including my daily routine – works for my friends back home.

(If you don‘t want to read this, scroll down two paragraphs 🙂

Before you start your ultimate hike, you need to plan ahead (duh!) and prepare not only your gear and meals, but also your finances and logistics (if the trail ends on the other side of the mountains – how are you going to get back?). Then comes the permit – if you‘re lucky and apply well in advance, you‘ll get one – rangers patrol the trails and campsites so everyone has to have a permit. It limits the number of hikers per day so the trail doesn‘t become overcrowded. At least, it ensures that everyone understands and follows LNT (Leave No Trace) principles. This means from more obvious things like packing out your entire trash and leaving wildlife and plants alone to the more unknown things (to me as a European hiker at least) – you have to use food storage boxes and you can‘t burn or bury toilet paper so you have to pack that out too. On the High Sierra Trail, there are bear boxes at the most used campsites.

Orientation is simple on most trails, as everything is well marked. It is recommendable to have a map and a compass though or a GPS device (in best case all of them). I mostly use Osmand app which has all the hiking trails on it and uses the GPS function from my phone (even if it‘s offline, in flightmode…) so it is super easy to stay on track. To get water, you can use any water the streams and lakes provide but you’ll have to filter it with a water filter – it‘s removing a 99% of all bacteria and germs. At last, knowing your routine and your limits and adapting any part of the hike if necessary is important (e.g. hiking smaller sections, getting up earlier to avoid the sun, treating blisters immediately…) – otherwise you might be forced to end your adventure.

Anywho, on to today:

The rustling and bustling of fellow hikers and my alarm clock woke me at 6am. I really wanted to cuddle back deep into the sleeping bag, but the best hiking time is when it‘s still cool out there.

Preparing chai and cornflakes, packing up, filling up on water, saying good bye to Bill – I was on my way, feeling well rested and ready.

After only a few minutes into the hike, a couple told me that there was a bear on the trail in my travel direction. How exciting!!! Was I going to encounter my first black bear? I‘m starting to become obsessed with them! It must have gone off though, because I didn‘t see it, just tons of lizards speeding out of the way. The trail had ups and downs and even it was only half of what I did yesterday, the packweight got uncomfortable and my still sore muscles refused to move fast.

Again, the last mile was a real struggle – there were amazing views of lakes and waterfalls all along but still, hiking upwards wasn‘t easy and even with poles I had to be careful not to stumble.

Lake Hamilton was more than rewarding. Every exhaustion is immediately forgotten when you see that lake. Huge granite peaks and slabs form a circle where the lake sits and collects its crystal clear dew water. I could look at this scenery forever, just sitting at the shore and tracing the mirrored mountains. I took lots of dips in the lake, but swam only a mini round as the water was so cold, it felt like a jumpstart to the heart.

I had this small island to myself to sunbath after swimming. My tent had the best view and sure enough my camp neighbors were the brothers again 🙃 they offered me cooked fish they caught from the lake – tasty!

I‘m going to cook dinner soon and watch the stars open-air later. I really wish I had red wine on me 😋

Disclaimer: I watched the sunset but there was no energy left for any star gazing. I‘m so tired and scared of tomorrow – hiking 11 miles and it‘s up and down again…

High Sierra Trail Part 1/8 – from Crescent Meadow to Buck Creek (9.6 Miles)

Time is really flying by! Today is Friday and I started hiking the High Sierra Trail! Packing up at Lodgepole took forever, because my food still wouldn‘t fit into the bear canister and the lack of coffee certainly didn‘t help.

The shuttle driver who took me to Crescent Meadow (where the trailhead is) said: „Be safe out there, honey!“ – so sweet – and I got chatted up a lot because of the size of my backpack (the small one now clings to the back of the big one…like a baby monkey…creating a bulging tower of weight 😬). People are so friendly and talkative here, it’s totally different than in Berlin or Germany in general.

The trail started out through a pretty forrest full of yellow and pink wild flowers. After a mile this incredible view opened up.

Peaks with snow patches, large green firs, smooth grey granite. I continued while hitting my hiking poles together from time to time to let any bears or mountain lions know that I‘m on the way.

When I arrived at Merthen creek, I thought I was in heaven – huge granite slabs hosting pines and waterfalls who form pools to dip into! I didn‘t camp here as I was set to reach Buck creek, a fellow hiker recommended it to me.

The last mile was hard. My feet were boiling in my boots, the backpack dug itself into my shoulders and my belly was rumbling. But I kept pushing and shortly before arriving, I was met by a light brown deer. It just stood on the trail and looked at me. Then it made a step towards me and instead of taking pictures of this beautiful animal, I panicked and screamed. It ran off and I stumbled away to Buck Creek, an enormous ravine with gorgeous views in all four directions. I was lucky to fetch the last good campspot, set up my tent, dipped into a freezing pool, ate chili mac and cheese with tortillas (yum!) and immediately made friends with Bill, a passionate guy who has been hiking around this area for 35 years! Bill was really sweet and shared his tips and secret campspots along the way.

I love how everyone gives each other advice, but never in a condescending (or malesplaining) way. I share my knowledge with people even if I‘m new to backcountry hiking and I‘m glad it‘s valued. I also met two brothers from Maryland this evening, named Phil and Evan – they‘re doing the HST too so we probably meet again!

Screaming neighbor kids woke me from weird, entangled dreams around 7.30am. Breakfast was instant quaker oats with cinnamon (good!) & an instant coffee pad (horrible!). I didn‘t have a single good, strong coffee in the US yet. It‘s a watered down excuse for coffee, but comes in ultra sized cups. I‘ll need to find an Italian-run restaurant soon! 😼

I picked up my hiking permit and asked the ranger about the latest trail conditions and other useful backcountry tips.

Then I took a trail to General Sherman Tree, the largest tree (in terms of trunk volume) in the world.

Sequoias are really cool trees – they are hyper resistant and can live up to thousands of years. They also survive fires, but it leaves marks (the dark triangle on the trunk above). On the way I passed several „prescribed burn“ zones – controlled fires that ensure the forests‘ health and growth. Forest fires are creating a nourishing soil for the trees by clearing the ground of debris and fallen branches. It would be so cool to live inside one like the squirrels do.

In the afternoon I grew sleepy and grumpy because there were just too many people shuffling around the trees and also going into no-go zones, therefore trampling the Sequoias‘ fragile roots 😓 While everyone was keen to take selfies and „trophy“ pictures, few read the info boards or actually looked at the trees.

Also the impact of the valley‘s pollution is visible – winds from the pacific ocean pick up all the smog and dirt that lingers around San Francisco and takes it up directly into the national park. I had a good view of the surrounding mountains from a viewpoint, but usually it’s clouded with fog. The CO2 an rain water pollution harms the seeds and saplins of the trees. It‘s troubling to know that this beautiful and wild environment is suffering invisibly.

Right now I‘m cooling my feet again in the river that runs through the campground. I’ll eat Thai soup improved with peanut butter for dinner. The era of instant soups, bug spray and searching something in the depths of the tent with a headlamp has begun!

I took a good rest at the hotel and started planning my meals for the trail in detail. This is much more complex than expected and fitting everything into the bear canister (I use a BV 500 – one of the biggest models) is impossible so far. I don‘t know how other people do it – but this trip is all about learning and I‘ll ask the rangers tomorrow!

In the evening I joined the Visalia LGBT+ Tuesdays Dining Group – a lovely group of people who meets up every Tuesday to munch together! A mexican fast food restaurant was chosen – I was invited by Greg (Thank you! You are the best! 😙) and had tacos with salsa, bean spread and rice. With the food came a huge drink cup you could refill over and over again. I was almost bursting after one full cup… but we still had to eat dessert next door! We had Big Kahuna‘s frozen yoghurt but unlike in Germany you could choose between six different yoghurt flavors and add tons of toppings yourself! Again, the portion size felt way too big 😝

I went shopping at Walmart afterwards – which took forever – and missed the last bus. I had a long walk back to the hotel which helped digesting all the delicious food! Staying in Visalia was nice and short – it definitely had a Californian feeling to it – hipster barber shops, organic ice cream stores, vintage clothing boutiques. The smell of pot followed me on the streets and I met my first Valley girl with Valley girl accent 😉

My morning started early – I had to return the rental car and hop into the plane to Vegaaaaas, baby!

The same, cute steward named Christopher was on board again! I got a last good view of Lake Powell, then I had to say goodbye to Arizona & Utah! I‘ll be back as soon as possible!

So I‘ve been to Sin City – but I‘m less than impressed. It probably looks better at night with all the lights blinking and ads flashing but at daytime, Vegas has an ugly, fake feeling to it – it’s like somebody had done plastic surgery to a city. I guess everyone is asleep in the hotel rooms from the previous nights’ escapades, so people never see the city in daylight.

Driving by Larry Flint’s „Hustler“ building and through the strip was fun though and I got to shop at REI, a really good outdoor store. I stocked up on camping stove fuel and freeze-dried foods that I‘ll need on the trail soon.

Another experience was Taco Bell – I was keen to taste this fast food and I liked it! Probably going back 😋🌮

Passing through Southern Nevada: a rocky desert, grey and brown mountains, more casinos – unlike Utah the route wasn‘t scenic – although Mojave desert is pretty cool with its’ weird cactus trees! It‘s a pity I can’t visit L.A. and the boulders at Joshua Tree National Park!

When the sun went down, the Californian air turned into a warm fog that sticks to your skin… it‘s an understatement to say that spending the night in a crouched position in the back of a VW beetle was uncomfortable. Can‘t wait to check into a hotel for some comfort tomorrow! I even forgot to take my daily epic (plush) animal photo!

Today I finally went into Buckskin Gulch Canyon which is supposed to be the longest slot canyon in the world.

Starting out from Wirepass trailhead, I made a little accidential detour and found myself marching through a dry wash full of fine sand before returning into the gulch.

It was cool having the canyon for myself – no other people were there and I could contemplate while walking bare-foot through the mud or sitting on a boulder between the smooth walls. My appetite is slowly coming back so I made sure I drank and ate enough.

On the way back I had another instance of several people asking me for help, there was a boulder stuck between the walls, an obstacle which was not easy to overcome from one side. I climbed up in front of a group of older men who didn’t expect me doing that so swiftly 😋

I guided one of them towards another trail and he brought up the topic of long distance hiking trail names. That‘s when I gave myself the name „Thirsty“ – as I‘m always thirsty for more: more beer, more wine, more adventures!

I spent the rest of my last day in Utah/Arizona at the beach at Lake Powell, swimming, sunbathing and watching boats. Then I treated myself with an ice-cold Arizona light in State 48 Tavern – a buzzing sports bar in Page. I chose a camping spot close to town to watch the zillion stars above, but the beer made me sleepy. An hour after falling asleep I was woken up by a very kind ranger – he informed me that I was not allowed to stay in my spot. Star watching remains on the to-do-list! 🌌

After filling up on gas and taking a morning swim in Wide Hollow Reservoir – a lake surrounded by petrified forrests – I drifted into Bryce Canyon National Park on a spontaneous decision.

When driving into the park, I had to stop every other mile to take pictures. Bright red sandstone towers, shaped like bizarre sugar drops or ice cones, inbetween ancient-looking pine trees. Red rock arches were the road is passing under. I could have cried – Utah has to be one of the most beautiful places on earth.

I did the Fairyland Loop Trail, a 12.2 miles hike which went through more amazing red rock spikes, dunes, pines and bristle cones. I began to understand that not even a full year would be enough to explore every corner of this magical place. But I‘m happy with my mix of detailled planning vs. spur-of-the-moment decisions where to go and what to do… it‘s almost uncanny how I think sometimes „now a place to swim would be nice!“ – and a lake pops up right in front of me.

The second half of the day was the not-so-fun part: I had difficulty finishing the trail upwards as the pain in my abdomen kept growing. I‘ve been feeling a dull and stabbing pain in the last couple of months in my belly – it kept returning and going away, but my doctors couldn‘t figure out what it was.

I decided to go to Kane County Hospital in Kanab. This was the best and the most expensive hospital visit I‘ve ever had. The nurses were extremely friendly and everyone was working fast and efficiently to rule out the causes of the pain – another thank you to the awesome staff ❤️ ! It became clear that I have ovary cysts on both sides (which should go away on their own) and also (to my surprise) I was pretty dehydrated – after two hours of treatment and a hefty bill, I got discharged.

Feeling a bit desperate and annoyed at the oncoming insurance paperwork, I sat defeated by the hospital entrance. That’s when I got offered a shower and place to sleep by Estella, an ER first responder / fire fighter who was assisting the nurses. Her home is a farm which she shares with her roommate Meghann – they are super sweet and helpful people who fed me a delicious home-cooked meal and ice-cold sangria. I haven’t eaten in two or three days because of the pain, so it was very comforting after this shock. I was desperate as I thought I couldn‘t continue my travel or at least not go hiking without being able to eat – when you hike 10 miles or more every day, you need to put calories in your body.

My new friends took me on a walk through the backyard dunes together with the two dogs and the pig „Sissy“ – watching her waddle after us and grunt and squeal was hilarious.

It was a lovely evening and I was happy and grateful to be with someone so welcoming.

My alarm clock woke me up to see the sunrise – fresh air and warm light feels so good! It was absolutely quiet, no wind blowing yet. I made my way to Zebra Slot Canyon, was a moderate hike but longer than I imagined. Today I brought enough water and snacks so I took my time photographing all sorts of wildlife – blossoming plants and gnarly trees, lizards and rabbits crawling and bouncing away in the sand.

The canyon itself was mostly under water – I tried a few steps but I didn‘t want to wade through muddy, stagnant waist-high water. No squeezing today 😦

I decided to climb up and see the top of the canyon – perhaps there was a way to climb back down inside where there was less water in it? Nope, it was pretty short and ended in a few pools and beautifully striped tunnels carved out by water.

I continued to Tunnel slot canyon which posed the same problem – dark, muddy water blocked the way through. Climbing was not an option this time as I reminded myself that I was alone in a remote area and if anything happened,… yeah. I met other hikers on the way back though! It always happens to me in foreign countries that I‘m asked if I‘m local and know the way – I like helping people but it also worries me that a lot of them wander off in the biggest heat of the day with children but without enough water, a GPS device or a clue how long the trail is going to be.

At the moment I‘m sitting at „Upper Fall Creek“ – a cool place to swim and wash clothes. The mountains and peaks surrounding this place are, once again, unreal. Grand Staircase Escalante was supposedly the last unmapped area of the US way back. No surprise, as after every turn, new canyons, dunes, fields and steep hills come into view. I‘ll install a go pro like a dashboard cam to catch little bit of this magic before going back towards Page tomorrow!

Waking up in a calm mood. Breathing in the fresh air of pine trees and herbs. Testing the echo of the surrounding walls. Watching the sun tint the mountain tops orange. This feels good!

Driving closer and closer towards „Grand Staircase Escalante – National Monument“ with good music on (Latest Albums of Fakear and The Blaze, in case you wanna know 🙃).

To get to the hiking destinations of today (Peek-A-Boo & Spooky Slot Canyons), I had to take „Hole-in-the-Rock“ road close to Escalante, which is full of red sand and stone bumps – quite a test for my rental car, but it made it. A nice couple offered me an extra ride to the trailhead.

After hiking in I found Dry Fork of Coyote Gulch, it was to be my first slot canyon to explore! It was quite large and required no squeezing through. Exciting nevertheless! Trying to get back on the original way required a bit of extra orientation as I like to hike loops rather than in-and-out tours.

The entrances of Peek-a-Boo & Spooky Canyon were easy to find and both were super fun to do, although I liked Spooky a bit better as it required lots of squeezing and scrambling.

It took me around four hours as I had to take a million photos – I‘ve been admiring this creation of nature on the computer screen since a long time but now I was in the middle – and getting stuck with my backpack 😅

After taking a nap, I went to Devils‘ Garden – a fantastic place full of rock towers, arches and more hoodoos made of yellow and white slickrock.

I set up camp close to tomorrow‘s trailhead and listened to podcasts about mental health. There was a fire ring next to my camp and it was one of these moments were company would have been good. But I knew that before I left on this trip. I knew that there were going to be moments where I wish someone would cuddle and watch stars with me.

I couldn‘t sleep anymore at 5am, so I hurried to the parking lot of Horseshoe Bend. My gps app decided it didn‘t want to track my route, but whatever – it was a fairly simple hike. And then I saw it:

The view. The peacefulness. The big calm this gorgeous canyon is radiating. The Colorado river dotted with greens along its banks. Giant deep red and dark brown rock faces, turning into a glowing wall when the sun hits them. I couldn‘t stop staring. Horseshoe Bend is incredible.

Somehow I avoided all the crowds and had the Canyon for myself. I extended the hike by walking farther on one side of the cliff to come across a smaller version of „The Wave“. Wind and water carve beautiful shapes and lines in the sandstone.

The sun decided to follow me mercilessly on my way to the Glen Canyon Dam Overlook, the Wahweap Viewpoint and the Toadstool Hoodoos. On the latter hike, there were more people – with all their „annoyingness“ 🙂 The „Hoodoos“ made up for it – another example of fragile rocks shaped into sculptures a billion of years.

A ranger at Pariah Contact Station informed me that there might be flashfloods due to a thunderstorm tomorrow, so I didn‘t want to hang around in Page any longer – Buckskin Gulch Canyon has to wait! Roadtrip tiiiiime!

Slowly, after many turns and ups and downs the landscape changed into something more green – farms, pastures, forrests and creeks. Lots of huge pick up trucks, BBQ western saloons and shops selling Native American artifacts.

After looking for a while, I found a calm spot for my mobile home next to a river and hidden from the road. It was very quiet…perhaps too quiet for me… I got a bit scared, all alone out there and I’ve firmly locked myself in the car – no fresh country air for me tonight. I tend to have an overimaginative fantasy which is detrimental to good camping evenings. So what is so scary? 1. Crazy people with guns 2. Animals who are probably more scared of me than the other way round 3. Creepy folklore (I‘m looking at you, Skinwalkers…).