My day started with tripping over a concrete step in front of my room when I tried to dodge a green mantis sitting on the floor.

After resupplying on energy bars and coffee, I checked out and Nate (the employee I met at the gear exchange) picked me up from the motel. We drove up towards Lake Sabrina, past the famous Buttermilk boulder area.

Nate picked a 4-pitch trad route on Cardinal Peak, rated 5.10a. The ascent towards the crag, a talus field full of wobbly boulders, was already demanding.

Starting the climb was really exciting, as I still felt yesterday‘s exhaustion in my arms and legs. I managed to calm myself and push on, laying protections into the cracks and slots, as I moved upwards on flakes and smooth walls. Nate lead the second pitch, as I was not determined enough to get past a difficult crack corner.

When I took over the third pitch, the sun was beaming on the very smooth surface, but I managed to get up without much of a problem. While laybacking with my fingertips in a tiny crack and my tip-less shoes crammed into the tiniest openings of the crack, I felt absolutely thrilled and joked that my new name is Finn Hill 🤪 Then it happened: after placing a solid cam, I kind of slipped and slowly glid down the rock surface towards the cam. Not a friend of taking falls (Hello Saxony!) I dug my fingers into the crack and stood up again, remarkably calm. The rest of the route flew by and I built an anchor with nuts and cams – a more difficult task!

The forth and last pitch had a chimney start, the only possible protection was a cam #3 – the biggest I‘ve ever used – and an easy top out to a bolted anchor. We rappeled and after a small break, I belayed Nate on a 5.10b route he admired since a while.

He seemed amazed at my skill to climb without 1) proper shoes – my big toe poked through my left shoe and the sharp tips were long gone 2) chalk on such a hot day on smooth granite – but that‘s what I‘m used to from climbing in Saxony – no chalk.

When I tried to follow the handcrack route in toprope style, my strenght quickly left my arms and also the technique was much harder and required some thinking. I‘ve just started (hand) crack climbing back home and although my handjams are solid, I can‘t do any foot jams yet – they’re painful but my soft shoes won‘t allow it anyway. It was fascinating to try out and I‘m super curious to learn it properly!

We had beer and very good, fresh made tacos at the „Mountain Rambler Brewery“ and had a long conversation about Mormons, religions and life. We drove to a dispersed camping spot out of town, which had room for my tent and Nate’s car, surrounded by brushes, sand and more round boulders. Gazillion of stars came out, the air felt nice and cool and Nate who is a gifted singer/guitar player jammed for a while.

I was ecstatic when I saw a message coming in after I posted in the Bishop climbing group on facebook. A photographer from LA named Clayton asked if I was up for sport climbing in a famous area – within fifteen minutes we met up, loaded our gear (mine consisting only of my harness and ratty, old shoes) into his car and took off towards Pine Creek Canyon.

Adrenaline pumped through me when I saw the light grey slabs and walls, towering above the parking lot. I was so psyched and nervous to finally get on the wall again, it took me three attempts to put on my harness correctly.

We did two easy routes (5.8 & 5.9) before trying harder stuff. The granite was smooth and the hand- and feetholds were often difficult to see. I desperately pressed and smeared my feet against the wall and was convinced that they might slip every second but it didn‘t happen. They stuck to the wall and I made it to the top, leading the routes with the quickdraws already clipped in.

Next, I followed two difficult and technical routes, one called „Flamethrower“ leading up a wall full of tiny ledges and crimps and then straight through an overhanging roof section that blasted my arms completely. I was hangdogging around before finally pulling through the roof and its’ crux. It felt incredibly cool to be doing a 5.11c (UIAA 8-/French 6c+) after such a long break of hard and sustained climbing. Back home I never went to my limit the last couple of months – at least not a physical limit – while climbing in Saxony.

Nevertheless I tried to lead a 5.10c but my fear of falling and risking an injury got the better of me – after clipping two bolts I turned to my climbing partner and shook my head. Clayton quickly led the route and I could toprope it while absolutely draining my arms – it was a good training and required all techniques – hand jams, slopey holds, little dynos, chimney and face climbing. I swore to myself to restart training in fall so that my endurance comes back. My strenght and technique are both at a satisfying level – except that there are always ways to improve 🤓

I belayed Clayton in two more hard routes when a thunderstorm came up – fortunately it passed after a few small raindrops. We met a couple of incredible buff looking, local climbers – it was inspiring and I really aim to become strong again and make climbing the center of my life, without distractions.

Hitchhiking from the campground into Lone Pine was super easy – a hiker (who couldn’t get a Mt. Whitney permit and returned) picked me up. At the gas station I drew a sign and after waiting five minutes a huge RV stopped.

Two brothers / fishermen in their 50s called Richard & Stanley offered me a ride to Bishop and even paid for a breakfast in a real american diner. Stanley told me all about the ancient Bristlecone forest close to Bishop and recommended a visit. He was fond of these gnarly, twisted old trees and showed me lots of pictures while we drank coffee and ate big portions of hash browns and jelly toast.

On the way towards Bishop we passed vulcanic hills of different colors and sizes. Both sides of Highway 395 are lined with Sierra mountains and desert stretches. A group of dark brown elks stood there grazing, just minutes after we passed the yellow sign „elks crossing“.

Shortly after our breakfast stop we arrived in Bishop – a cute little town full of charm and climbing shops. I went to the mammoth gear exchange shop – such a cool idea to recycle and resell used outdoor stuff! I bought some shorts and chatted up an employee about climbing and free camping aaaaaand…. drumroll …we have a climbing date on Wednesday – I‘m super psyched and happy!

After browsing through other outdoor stores, visiting the ranger station and a sporting goods store (where I took a glimpse at guns), I bought tickets for the county fair on the weekend – more details about that will be revealed! A very nice lady also handed me a magazine about a mule competition weekend that is held every year in Bishop – I didn‘t know that existed. The mules are crowned and decorated like beauty pageants.

At the motel, I took the longest shower ever. I didn‘t feel like going out to eat so I bought a margerita in a can at the gas station and sat down at the local park, listening to a free concert of the city community band playing jazz, marches and bigband songs. A lonely, drunk couple danced out of tune and I wondered if there‘s any other nightlife in Bishop (edit/spoiler: there isn‘t, but I‘m so tired from climbing and just moving under the heat every day, I mostly fall asleep within minutes at night..,).

Today I wanted to check out Alabama Hills and its‘ egg-shaped boulders but on the way down the street I started to feel really sick and tired from the heat so I turned around. It was over 100 degrees again before noon and it became painful to walk up the hill. That’s when a rancher in his 60s spotted me from his porch and offered me to sit down a bit and rest in shade. His name was Ross and he had a cute little golden retriever called Buck. We talked a bit about his life on the farm and how he is taking care of several semi-wild horses and showed me around.

After that he took me back to the campsite in a rattling, rumbling 70 year old white pick up truck that looked like a mix of a golf cart and a tractor, going 15-20 mph. Ross said Buck (the dog) was going to be jealous as I was sitting in its‘ seat!

No more hiking today – I‘ll do laundry, listen to more crime podcasts and relax next to the creek. Maybe I‘ll visit Ross and Buck later for beers, if I‘m able to walk again.

There‘s not so much to do around here, which isn‘t bad – it‘s a big contrast to my overloaded life in Berlin. I can direct my focus towards simple things and slow down in general. There‘s no internet and no information flood. Just a boulder next to my tent which by now, I probably climbed for the 10th time 🤗

It‘s over!!! It feels almost surreal but I‘ve hiked the last two miles down from beautiful Lone Pine Lake to the parking lot and exited Mt. Whitney zone! I‘m so happy I did it – hiking High Sierra Trail!

The brothers I met, Evan and Phil, came shortly after me to the small hikers’ café and we had a big breakfast and coffee. They gave me all their remaining trail food which helps saving money.

A super nice guy (don‘t know his name – thank you kind stranger!) I met the same morning while hiking down gave me water, more food and a ride down to Lone Pine campground which is situated in the desert between Lone Pine city and the mountains.

After setting up I quickly hitchhiked into town to let everyone know I‘m safe. 😙 Lone Pine is small and touristy but it also has a few hiking/climbing shops and after browsing through them I have to say I really miss climbing at this point. Hiking is cool but climbing asks for a bigger variation of movements and skills… I have one more rest day tomorrow until I make it to Bishop to try to connect with its‘ climbing scene!

At the moment, I‘m sitting on a big granite boulder facing the Sierra mountains and watching the sunset. The surrounding desert is full of small round granite blocks and fragrant brushes – a landscape from outta space!

High Sierra Trail Part 7/8 – from Guitar Lake to Trail Camp (8.6 Miles)

The air was still cold when I rose at 5.30am (a personal record so far) and got on to the trail at 6.50am. I noticed some headlamps way up on the steep track that wound itself up the mountain pass in many switchbacks.

I met a very nice group of hikers and we encouraged each other and joked around to make the ascent less painful. It was hard. Another guy couldn‘t believe the size of my backpack but I told him it‘s real and I can do it. However I was more than happy to put it down, when I reached Whitney Portal, the junction from where a narrow, rocky trail takes you up to the summit. I took the daypack and shot up the last 1.9 miles – it felt like I had a jetpack on.

Scrambling over jagged granite rocks and even crossing another ice field always makes me feel like I‘m really mountaineering ;-))

And there it was: the top of the highest mountain in (continental) Northern America – Mount Whitney. What a great feeling! Everyone was busy trying to catch reception with their phones and taking selfies from all angles. I had to sit down and take in the views – there was clear sky above us making it possible to see far – I spotted a forest fire right away but it seemed to be far from us.

I snacked on my remaining supplies, took photos and chatted other hikers up – so many sunburnt but happy faces and exciting stories to hear – there were groups with tshirts.

Then I made the dreaded way back down towards Outpost Camp, a place to spend the night before exiting the trail. Hundreds of switchbacks, just grey rocks and patches of ice. It felt like my knees and feet were going to burst again, so I crashed at the first camp, not dedicated to make more miles today.

I personally don‘t like these camps above treeline too much. The sun is brutal and reflects on every surface which makes it impossible to hang out at the lake without wearing three layers of clothes, sunglasses, a hat and a scarf. The air is thin which makes my nose run but at the same time I‘m not as thirsty as I should be after this exhaustion. It’s either too hot or too cold and never really comfortable. Altogether it makes me feel tired and slightly „off“.

I tried using the wag bag (you are not allowed to poop between the stones and bury it as usual in Mount Whitney zone to prevent it from becoming too littered) without success. I forced myself to eat and drink and fell on my sleeping pad, unable to move much more.

High Sierra Trail Part 6/8 – from Junction Meadow to Guitar Lake (11 Miles)

I made it to Guitar Lake – an alpine lake shaped like a guitar above the treeline. The view is incredible! But as it was a long hike in full sunshine and I got sunburnt. Feeling woozy now, laying in camp, unable to move. I’m proud that I pushed myself again to achieve my set goal – ascending to the lake was hard but I was successful!

I crave a shower and a clean environment, but guess what, it won‘t be another week before that happens! Guitar Lake is veeeeeery cold but I was able to wash myself.

The other people camping here are weird (or maybe it’s just my sunburnt perception?) There are older guys wearing their tents as skirts fishing and a few hiker bros. The kind of hikers that only recognize other bros as true hikers and also never ask you a question back (apart from the set phrase „howsitgoin?“) but are eager to brag about their speed, mileage, gear, connections…whatever, just leave me alone.

There‘s also a big marmite living under a rock next to my tent. It already eyed my food. I wedged my toiletries and the bear canister between rocks a few meters away from the tent. When it got dark, I heard a sound like my skillet clanging and I knew there was an animal trying to get to my food. When I went out, it was the marmite – it snitched the toiletry bag put it next to its‘ rock. What is worse – when something eats your remaining (clean) toilet paper or your food? I chased the marmite away and retrieved my stuff – sure enough there was a hole chewed into the plastic 😅

High Sierra Trail Part 5/8 – from Kern Hot Spring to Junction Meadow (7.7 Miles)

I left camp in record time this morning, thus making a good start before sunrise. Lots of river crossings demanded all my attention, my shoes got wet and I had to climb over fallen trees again, but otherwise I made good progress and the trail was not too demanding. One of my calves was almost cramping, so I remembered to drink magnesium every day. The canyon walls rose up on both sides until I arrived early at Junction Meadow, my campspot next to Kern River.

The brothers, the couple and the family I met already earlier came after me and we talked about miles and goals. Then we all dried our shoes at a campfire – it will be the last one before the trail ascends again, going above 8000 feet where campfires are prohibited.

I begin to feel the difference between dayhiking and thru hiking. Both give you the chance to explore nature and its beauty. But with thru hiking, it‘s much more of an overall experience with all the highs and lows. There are boring bits and the daily routine can start to feel annoying, indulging every little part of the trail might become impossible – after all you have to make miles every day to reach the end goal and sometimes that means swift walking without stopping to gaze at every flower or squirrel you see.

But going after a set goal and reaching it with all means is as valuable as strolling around on a 3 hour easy loop trail which ends in the parking lot at a restaurant. Speaking of restaurants!

I start to feel hungry even when I just ate. I need more food but everything is rationed and the earliest I get to town is Saturday afternoon. I‘m so looking forward to a burger, beer and something fresh like a salad.

I‘m going to bed early today (listening to „Never Ending Story“ by Michael Ende) – tomorrow is a big day, I‘ll try to make it to Guitar Lake, if not then Crabtree Meadow. Three more days on the High Sierra Trail!

High Sierra Trail Part 4/8 – from Moraine Lake to Kern Hot Spring (6.3 Miles)

It‘s Monday! I‘m not having a blue Monday at all – although my feet hurt really bad again. I hope the long rest, a good stretching and the hot spring will ease the pain. Hot spring?

Let‘s start where we left it. My daily routine of setting up camp, packing down and doing other errands is becoming faster and more efficient. I‘m not in a particular hurry but hiking so many miles every day requires a certain discipline.

The trail went down into the valley of Kern River, a strong, broad stream formed by lots of smaller creeks. The surroundings looked like out of Jurassic Park, lots of ferns and huge fallen trees. I met my second rattlesnake and discovered that I can run quite fast with 55 pounds on my back. Another snake (a black one who moved through water – so cool!) showed up and grey squirrels too.

Relaxing at Kern Hot Spring was a highlight. It’s a natural hot spring that flows into a small tub made of stone, next to ice-cold Kern river. Many generations of hikers carved their names into the wooden planks around it. I met another friendly Californian hiker and while floating in the hot tub together I learned that some people get their food up by renting pack mules – very smart!

Lunch consisted of peanutbutter mixed with jelly and cornflakes and a kool aid melon drink. Food tastes so good when you worked out the whole day – when your body craves it, rather than eating out of boredom or routine.

I took a long power nap and started doing errands afterwards (camping is always work… MsP – if you read this, you will think back about our „glamping“ adventure 😜 – this is even worse and I can‘t escape it for another three weeks) – such as doing laundry, filtering water, collecting firewood and cleaning stuff.

As soon as I got the fire going, I started thinking a lot about my life and what I want to do in the future. I start to feel more calm and confident every day – hiking helps clearing the mind from stress and with that one can start making solid decisions.

I‘m also learning to appreciate things that seem normal or always available at home or in cities. A shower, clean clothes, water from the tap, electricity, a hot meal. In the backcountry, you have to work for it.

High Sierra Trail Part 3/8 – from Hamilton Lake to Moraine Lake (12.6 Miles)

I am so tired. Everything hurts. Especially my feet hurt. If you need more details – my ankles, heels, toes, soles and ligaments hurt. I think I hit a new record for my body today. I‘ve never hiked 12 miles (19 kilometers) with a 35kg (55+ pounds) backpack before.

I started early to avoid the sun on the steep way up and away from Hamilton Lake. Lots of obstacles came up: in the morning I got my period under cramps… always such a pleasure! Then came balancing over wobbly rocks and fallen trees to cross rivers, endless ascents on granite stairs, trotting down meadow trails full of mosquito swarms, crossing over patches of snow. There was even a blow out of the trail, meaning that a huge rock had slid down into nowhere, making the trail hardly passable – I was lucky because a family was in the spot and helped me with the giant backpack.

Otherwise, the trail was beautiful and in hindsight my favorite part of High Sierra Trail. I passed lakes filled with icebergs and snow fields who looked like from Ice Age.

Finally, I stood at Kaweah Gap – a mountain pass connecting the valley in which I started my hike with another, incredibly beautiful valley. It looked alpine to me – it could almost have been in Austria or Bavaria…

I also hit an animal variety record! I saw marmites, squirrels, ground hogs, a mouse, several snakes, a small black raptor, another cheeky deer, big insects that chirp when they fly (not the usual cicadas or grass hoppers), and of course lizards, blue, black, brown and striped.

The trail asked a lot of me – two long ascents in one day – that‘s a total of 9 hours of hiking. I had a one hour lunch break next to a waterfall, but the „break“ was filled with tasks: putting on sun lotion, washing hair, applying kinesiotape on blisters, filtering water, studying the map…

I set out with the goal to reach Moraine Lake and I did it. The last three miles were incredibly hard – the trail was mostly flat but my feet hurt so much, I wasn‘t even feeling the backpack anymore. It‘s interesting how I can turn into a coach to myself – usually I’m coaching other people. I kindly pushed and motivated myself to reach the goal. I could have given up and camped way earlier but there were too many mosquitoes anyway and here, at Moraine Lake, there is not a single one miraculously.

When I discovered the bear box and the campsite, I was full of joy. But then I heard an infamous sound not far away and a beige rattlesnake looked at me while winding through the sand.

I backed away to give it space and it disappeared. (Finn’s Brain Off-Voice: Is that good or bad? Will it come back and gnaw through the tent wall? Will it grow and swallow me as a whole and digest for months? 😱)

Silence surrounds me as I’m the only person camping here (gulp). I‘m putting in ear plugs with music to block out any creepy sounds. I’m off to sleep anyway! It‘s already 8pm!