Day #52 Overcoming Fear

Saseen and I took snapshots of sport routes in the guidebook and drove to the crag in his colorful van (every second person I meet lives in a van…). To start off we picked „Pat & Jack“, a wall that features lots of harder technical climbing and routes full of big knobby holds.

We did a small multi-pitch tour – I couldn‘t lead the 2nd pitch and struggled even in toprope! It was rated 5.10a 😅

We rappeled and went on to do „Knobheads“ a route with two parts: the first 5.10b section was a steep slab with very small, slopey holds and required good technical climbing, the second part – 5.10a – started off of a ledge and was absolute bliss – one good knob hold after the other. The stone felt and looked almost like vulcanic tuffa, black red and grey knobs and holes – perfectly made for climbing.

The first bolt was very high and although the route looked easy, it was scary to get to the bolt, as the movements required precision footwork and pulling tiny slopey holds. I ended up being too scared, so Saseen went up and clipped the first bolt for me. I was able to do it then and went up without stopping except for a tiny fall.

After Saseen did the route, I set the goal for myself to do it again, properly and from ground up without falls. I was able to control and breathe through my fear. Moving slowly and balancing on delicate footholds and slopers, I moved up the 5.10b section on to the easy, enjoyable climbing. It was hard for me to believe that 5.10b was once my onsight level…but then lots of things changed since then.

On the way to the next crag we met people in the parking lot who gave us guarana icecream, so we stopped and talked more about climbing and Burning Man festival. Driving back into the valley was interesting as it offered a new perspective – gigantic cliffs, waterfalls, deep pools and walls that were seemingly made for climbing.

We pulled into the parking lot of Chapel Wall – the same shady crag I had already visited with Yoshi. I attempted to climb a 5.10b but the bolts were extremly spaced, requiring additional gear that neither of us had so I came back down. Saseen did a 5.11 something with some rests and falls inbetween – it was super hard and I was impressed, especially as I was struggling in toprope to get up. Some moves seemed so „far away“ from my abilities that I laughed when I finally did them.

Hungry and thirsty from the day, we got a burrito at the facelift event and all of a sudden, Nate came around to hug me! What a nice surprise!

Tommy Caldwell spoke about his recent political work and efforts to make people climate change aware. Then there was Enock Glidden, a gifted climber in a wheelchair who made it all the way up on El Cap. And pro-climber Molly Mitchels, who openly talked about her anxiety and how climbing can help with that. More beer went into my belly and I was very happy to see my community – who are mostly straight, white, able bodied male climbers – listening to people who struggle but still manage to climb.