Day #47 Climbing with Yoshi from Tokio

As some people left the campsite, I was able to move my tent away from the giant trees that had dripped sticky resin on everything. An Austrian couple settled into the campsite. Over dinner they told me that they had already climbed The Nose 20 years ago! They‘re in their late 50s and still going strong, hiking and climbing every day. It gives me hope 😅

I had a plan for today: 26 year old powergun Yoshi from Tokio asked if I would like to climb easy stuff. The night before, I watched him explode on a V4/V5 boulder at the campsite, illuminated by headlamps. So I wondered how „easy“ it would be. We chose the crag where „Nutcracker“ is located.

We drove his car to the base, hiked up and did „After Six“ (5.7. / 5.8.?), a multi-pitch tour leading up a sunny wall starting with a rather polished crack/lieback system.

I followed and noticed that although he placed frequent protection, Yosh was rather a minimalist – not fluent in English, he only spoke the necessary words and took only few gear pieces such as carabiners and alpine draws with him. The wind added to the confusion when to put him on or off belay as we couldn’t hear each other anymore.

Two other parties in the route held us up, we had to wait around and I could sense that Yosh and I would be much faster, both climbing pitches until there was no rope left. On the last one, Yosh made a contour around a Japanese couple as they were super slow.

The rock quality was extraordinary and I felt thrilled when we arrived on top. The descent was less fun and I cursed at my hurting, weak knees.

Then we drove direction Curry Village – Yoshi showed me a 5.12a line in the shadowy base of north-sided Chapel Wall. It was bolted and had chalk marks here and there. To me, sports climbing is scarier than trad climbing – which is super weird.

After Yoshi fought his way up, it was my turn. My first try was stiff and unelegant, I couldn‘t see any decent footholds and the sharp micro holds dug into my fingers. I have never climbed a 5.12a outdoors, but after Yosh was able to redpoint it, I was keen to try it again and link the moves. The first half actually worked, but then I couldn‘t go on. It was too painful and I asked to be lowered.

We went to take a shower at Curry Village and got more beer at the shop afterwards. Yoshi shared a pineapple sausage with me that I wrapped in a giant tortilla – everything I eat these days goes in a burrito.

He was too tired to join me at Anne‘s birthday party but I went for a beer and the campfire. Then I also felt heavy sleep overcoming me – it has been a long day!