Day #45 Free Soloing The Nose, Pitch 0.5

I did not want to get up today. But then, lots of things had to be done: shopping for postcards (of course another climbing history book „somehow“ found the way into my shopping bag…), finding faster internet and contact lense solution. I found those in the libary – the sweet librarian Christine gave me the wifi password and her personal eye drops – a replacement for my contacts solition which was nowhere to be found. We joked around and I told her about my plans to climb and hike El Capitan.

For lunch, I had a really nice burrito with fresh spinach, tomatoes, scrambled eggs and ham, sour creme and a bit of organic guacamole (that cost like 6$ 😱). Feeling satisfied, I took off wandering the Valley Loop Trail towards El Capitan. I finally had to see it!

As I approached, the crowds disappeared and I could actually pay attention to the nature around me and the autumn colours of the meadows and forests. I think September is a perfect month in several climbing locations where I have been so far – it shows nature from its‘ best side.

So, El Capitan is big. Like, really big. And somehow, it kept pulling me closer and closer, it was both intimidating and mesmerizing to look at. I ran up the small approach trail and laid my hands on the smooth, warm rock. This is where Lynn Hill and thousands of other strong climbers started, countless times. It was incomprehensible that such big climbs started off this „normal“ looking wall at the base.

The granite looked so incredibly clean and good, I changed into climbing shoes as if I was in trance. Trusting the rock, I carefully yet quickly moved up on ledges and good holds. The feeling was amazing, the views too. A few other guys tried to scramble up but no one got as high as I did, so I had a good ledge to sit on and look down. I did not feel scared a bit.

Further above were several parties, hauling their bags up or slowly advancing on their routes. When I got down I saw a guy rapping down a fixed line and asked him where The Nose actually begins. He pointed towards the start of the first approach pitch, where I had just scrambled up. Oh my god! I free soloed one percent of The Nose, I thought to myself and giggled. Lynn Hill And Alex Honnold might have touched the very same holds!

Hiking back to Camp 4, I felt a bliss that only comes from climbing. My bad mood was blown away and I felt lots of anticipation for the coming months of training. I really got to step up, it‘s now or never. As winter in Berlin is very dark and cold, I want to use the time to get strong again!