Day #23 Climbing in Pine Creek Canyon

I was ecstatic when I saw a message coming in after I posted in the Bishop climbing group on facebook. A photographer from LA named Clayton asked if I was up for sport climbing in a famous area – within fifteen minutes we met up, loaded our gear (mine consisting only of my harness and ratty, old shoes) into his car and took off towards Pine Creek Canyon.

Adrenaline pumped through me when I saw the light grey slabs and walls, towering above the parking lot. I was so psyched and nervous to finally get on the wall again, it took me three attempts to put on my harness correctly.

We did two easy routes (5.8 & 5.9) before trying harder stuff. The granite was smooth and the hand- and feetholds were often difficult to see. I desperately pressed and smeared my feet against the wall and was convinced that they might slip every second but it didn‘t happen. They stuck to the wall and I made it to the top, leading the routes with the quickdraws already clipped in.

Next, I followed two difficult and technical routes, one called „Flamethrower“ leading up a wall full of tiny ledges and crimps and then straight through an overhanging roof section that blasted my arms completely. I was hangdogging around before finally pulling through the roof and its’ crux. It felt incredibly cool to be doing a 5.11c (UIAA 8-/French 6c+) after such a long break of hard and sustained climbing. Back home I never went to my limit the last couple of months – at least not a physical limit – while climbing in Saxony.

Nevertheless I tried to lead a 5.10c but my fear of falling and risking an injury got the better of me – after clipping two bolts I turned to my climbing partner and shook my head. Clayton quickly led the route and I could toprope it while absolutely draining my arms – it was a good training and required all techniques – hand jams, slopey holds, little dynos, chimney and face climbing. I swore to myself to restart training in fall so that my endurance comes back. My strenght and technique are both at a satisfying level – except that there are always ways to improve 🤓

I belayed Clayton in two more hard routes when a thunderstorm came up – fortunately it passed after a few small raindrops. We met a couple of incredible buff looking, local climbers – it was inspiring and I really aim to become strong again and make climbing the center of my life, without distractions.